Silver Paper Chicken

If using chicken thighs, remove the skin. Using a sharp cleaver, cut each thigh, through the bone, crosswise in half. If using chicken breasts, cut each into 2-inch pieces for 16 pieces altogether.

Rinse the chicken under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Trim the scallions and cut into four 2-inch sections.

Combine the soy sauce, sugar, rice wine, garlic, and five-spice powder in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue boiling until thick and syrupy, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Add the chicken pieces, toss to coat thoroughly, and let marinate, covered, in the refrigerator, for 2 to 4 hours.

Preheat the grill to high.

Cut sixteen 6-inch squares of aluminum foil. Place a piece of foil, shiny side down, on your work surface. Drain the chicken, reserving the marinade, and place a piece, along with a piece of scallion, in the center of each piece of foil.

Spoon a little marinade on top of each piece of chicken, then wrap by crinkling the foil together, rather than folding it neatly (see note).

When ready to cook, arrange the bundles on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the chicken is cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes in all. To test for doneness, unwrap one of the bundles. The chicken should feel firm and hot to the touch.

Much of the fun of eating this dish is the surprise that comes with unwrapping the foil, but do warn eaters to open their bundles carefully, the chicken will be very steamy and hot.