1960s Swedish Meatballs

Heat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a medium skillet, over medium heat, heat the oil with the onion, celery, and garlic, and cook until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add 2/3 of the salt, the allspice, and the nutmeg. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, then blend in the milk and bread crumbs. Add the meat and cooked vegetables and stir or work with your hands to combine.

Shape into 1-inch balls. Saute over medium-high heat, in tablespoon olive oil, a few meatballs at a time, removing them when well browned on all sides. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat. Whisk in flour, remaining salt, sugar, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook over medium heat, scraping up any browned bits. Whisk in light cream and water.

Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens, at least 1 minute. Return the meatballs to the skillet and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.