Teatotallers

About author / Rebecca Michaels

Queen of the desserts and pastry chef extraordinaire; graduate French Culinary Institute; Golden Scoop Award winner; Flying Monkey Bakery founder

Tea has become quite the rage in the last couple of years. It seems that the U.S. has finally caught up with the rest of the world when it comes to appreciating tea. Between the increased interest in health and alternative medicine and a growing number of teashops selling specialty teas and tea-based products, Americans are becoming increasingly savvy about this versatile beverage. Hot, cold, green, herbal, black, white, fruity--even chocolate!  From a comforting cup of Constant Commet to Starbucks' chai latte, tea has a wide range of flavors and personalities.

In fact, tea can be served or sampled in myriad ways. Not only is it a delicious and healthy drink, it can also be used in cooking and baking to flavor all sorts of food items. There are some great dishes that use tea that have become relatively common to our palates, such as Lapsang Duck and green tea ice cream.

Written accounts of drinking tea date all the way back to the 3rd Century AD in China. Not until the 16th Century did the Portuguese, who voyaged to and traded with the East, introduce tea to the rest of Europe. Interestingly, the British, who are known for the daily ritual and pageantry of "teatime", were the last Europeans to be introduced to tea.

"Tea will always evolve. There will always be something curious about seeing what you are drinking before you drink it, to know you are consuming a natural, simple plant and not a bi-artificial sugary, fake concentrate," says Jodi Holiday, owner of Sympathy for the Kettle, a boutique tea house in New York City. She sells hundreds of types of teas, each with its particular character.  But all are derived from the same plant camellia sinensis, an evergreen-like shrub. Herbal "teas" are actually not true teas at all; they're called tisanes, and are infusions of herbs, berries, and spices that naturally have no caffeine.  A common herbal tea is chamomile, a light soothing tea good for upset stomachs.

Expert tea connoisseurs plan and experiment with tea blends with the same seriousness as French perfumers. Jodi Holiday keeps classic teas like Earl Grey and English Breakfast, as well as inspirational blends of her own, such as a Provencal blend of black teas and lavender. Her New York blend is still a work-in-progress.

Holiday was looking for one-of-a-kind treats made with her teas for customers to enjoy at her shop. That's where my skills as a pastry chef were put to use.  Our collaboration has produced some neighborhood hits, like Green Tea Pound Cake.  

It"s easy to add a lovely tea flavoring to your own baked goodies. And with a little patience and practice you too can come up with your own signature teatime treats. Additionally, there are health benefits to baking with tea. Holiday reports that "Cooking with tea retains most of the essential oils, vitamins, and antioxidants."

The basic principle involved in baking or cooking with tea is to infuse, or steep, the tea into the liquid or butter that is called for in your recipe. Use a larger amount of tea than you would for drinking and add extra liquid so that the tea leaves don't soak up the exact amount you need in your recipe. Heat to a near boil. Steep for 20-30 minutes and then strain. For recipes that use butter, simply add tea to melted butter and let it infuse for a while and then strain. The butter can then be left in the fridge to solidify. This also makes a delicious and unusual spread for quick breads or toast.

Try infusing black teas with chocolate cakes or truffles; use herbals or green teas for pound cakes or custards.  Experiment with different tisanes or try soaking tea in juice called for in your recipe overnight (heating the juice will make it slightly bitter). Just like cooking with wine, you can bake with teas that you would normally drink. Have fun and don't be afraid to try out your ideas on your friends. I'm sure they won't mind playing teatime with you. No doilies and finger sandwiches required!

Serves/Makes: 1 loaf

• 1 1/2 cup cake flour
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons maatcha (green tea) powder
• 1 1/2 sticks softened butter
• 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 eggs
• 3 tablespoons milk