Hungarian Walnut Dessert Somloi Galuska

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter the bottom only of a 13 X 9-inch baking pan, and line the bottom with parchment or wax paper.

To make the plain layer: Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer or a stainless-steel medium bowl. Fit into a medium saucepan of simmering water (the water should not touch the bowl) on medium heat. Whisk constantly until the eggs are warm to the touch and the sugar has dissolved, about 1 minute. Using the whisk attachment or a handheld electric mixer on high speed, beat until the mixture is tripled in volume, about 3 minutes. Combine the flour and salt.

In two additions, sift the flour into the egg mixture, and fold in. Spread evenly in the pan, using an offset metal spatula to fill the corners.

Bake until the center springs back when pressed lightly with a finger, about 12 minutes. Cool for 3 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of the cake to release. Cover the pan with a sheet of wax or parchment paper, then with a baking sheet. Invert the cake, and carefully peel off the top paper. (The bottom layer of paper will help transport the cooled cake layer.) Cool the baking pan before making the other layers, then repeat the buttering and lining process.

To make the walnut layer: Process the flour, walnuts, and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until the walnuts are chopped into a fine powder. Following the procedure and baking time for the plain layer, make the walnut layer, substituting the walnut mixture for the cake flour and salt, but fold the walnut mixture into the eggs without sifting (the nuts will not pass through the sieve).

To make the cocoa layer: Sift the flour, cocoa, and salt together. Following the procedure and baking time for the plain layer, make the cocoa layer, substituting the cocoa mixture for the cake flour and salt.

To make the rum syrup: Stir the sugar, water, and the orange and lemon zests in a small saucepan over medium heat until boiling. Boil without stirring until the syrup has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Cool completely. Stir in the rum, and remove the zests.

To make the pastry cream: In a saucepan or a microwave oven, heat 3 cups of the milk until simmering. Pour the remaining 1 cup milk into a heavy-bottomed, medium saucepan. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the cold milk and whisk until dissolved. Add the yolks and sugar and whisk until combined. Gradually whisk in the hot milk. Cook over medium heat, whisking often, until the mixture comes to a full boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Transfer to a medium bowl set in a larger bowl of ice water. Let stand until cooled, stirring occasionally.

To assemble: Mix the raisins and walnuts in a bowl. Bring the preserves to a boil over medium heat, stirring often; keep warm.

Place the walnut layer in a 13 X 9-inch baking or serving dish. Brush with one third of the syrup, spread with the apricot preserves, then spread with one third of the pastry cream. Sprinkle half of the raisin-walnut mixture on top. Top with the cocoa layer, brush with half of the remaining syrup, and spread with half of the remaining pastry cream. Sprinkle with the remaining raisin-walnut mixture. Add the plain layer, brush with the remaining syrup, and spread with the remaining pastry cream. Sift the cocoa over the top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

For each serving, using a 2-inch diameter ice-cream scoop or large dessert spoon, scoop 2 or 3 "dumplings" from the cake and stack in a soup bowl or on a plate. Transfer the whipped cream to a pastry bag fitted with a 9/16-inch-wide open-star tip, such as Ateco Number 825. Pipe whipped cream rosettes on top, and drizzle the rum chocolate sauce over all. Serve chilled.

Sweetened Whipped Cream

Pour the cream into a well-chilled bowl and add the sugar and vanilla. Using an electric hand mixer or balloon whisk, beat the cream to the desired consistency. For soft peaks, the cream will be just thick enough to hold its shape in soft billows. For stiffly beaten cream, the beaters or whisk wires will leave distinct traces in the cream and stand in firm peaks when the beaters are lifted.

Rum Chocolate Sauce

In a small saucepan, bring all ingredients to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. Cook at a brisk simmer, stirring often, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Cool slightly and serve warm.