Goat on a Spit, or, Head-Butts and Barbecue

About author / Josh Gunn

Bachelor chef; southern cooking; mixologist; university professor. Josh's recipes will delight (and sometimes terrify) you.

Although no stranger to controversy, recently the Texas legislature did something controversial: it ruled that not one, but two Texas towns hold the title of "Official Texas State Goat Barbecue Cook-Off." Apparently, representative Sid Miller introduced a resolution to designate the 13th annual Mills County Goat and BBQ Cook-off in Goldthwaite, Texas, the state's official goat-event back in March.

Folks in Brady, Texas, however, learned the news and marshaled a protest: Their festival, the Brady World Championship BBQ Goat Cook-Off, was 36 years old, and Bradians were not about to let the Goldthwaitians lay claim to the holy state imprimatur (Let the head-butt jokes commence!). Brady's mayor—and, apparently, newspaper editor—helped to mobilize a protest and in May the legislature pit the two towns together in a battle that would require Peter Jackson and a million dollar budget to re-stage! Under the tremendous pressure of these kid-lovin' ninnies and nannies, Miller revised his resolution: he proposed the Mills County event be dubbed "an Official Texas State Goat Barbecue Cook-Off."

Suddenly, peace and harmony reigned, and the denizens of Goldthwaite and Brady held hands around the BBQ pit, encircling a baby goat spinning slowly on a spit, as they sang "Kumbayah." Metaphorically speaking, of course.

Such a fascinating story reminded me that I am quite fond of goats—both as pets and as food, heck, even spiritually! I once did a guided journey with a local shaman during an all-day workshop. We prayed and made offerings to trees and plants. We ate food. We talked a lot about our personal issues. Then, with the aid of a drum, we "journeyed" in a trance to the lower and upper worlds. I was on a pathway leading through a forest when a white goat walked in front of me, stopped, and said "hello." I discovered then that my animal spirit guide is a goat. A goat named Chauncey, in fact. He now visits in dreams occasionally, mostly to warn me about some stupid mistake I'm about to make.

I think I first met Chauncey, in this mortal coil, as a pet goat tied to a tree in a neighbor's yard. He was a nice guy. I fed him Skittles and Spree candies. He liked me alright. One day, I hope I own a home with a little yard, because I would like a pet goat. And chickens.

As food, I've had goat in Cuban and Indian cuisine, and certainly in Tex-Mex. I didn't realize it, but apparently goat is one of the most widely consumed meats in the world. Here in the Republic of Texas goat is a popularly served as cabrito, which basically means "kid goat" in Spanish but also just sounds more appetizing to Americans (This is also why adult goat is termed chevros, from the French word, since "I love chevron" sounds better than "I am a goat eater" for some reason).

Goat is a tasty meat and takes to seasoning well. The trick with goat is that it does tend to be a bit boney, and you often have to chew the meat from the bone (especially in Indian and Cuban cuisine). I confess I have never cooked goat myself, but I hope to try one day---one day as soon as I can get a big BBQ pit with a spit. I don't have one of those. That didn't stop me, however, from finding some recipes on the InterTubes and cobbling together my own version. Try it. I dare you. Or, hike on over to http://www.bradytx.com/7659091_75200.htm or http://www.mcmga.org for one of their goat cook-offs! Did someone say "road trip!?

Serves/Makes: 12

• 14 pounds whole baby goat, cleaned
• spicy dry rub
• 12 large (burrito-size) flour or corn tortillas
• guacamole
• salsa or pico de gallo
• 1 bottle (24 ounce size) chipotle barbecue sauce