Yam Makeua Issaan (Thai Grilled Eggplant Salad)

Heat a grill or broiler. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork. Grill or broil about 5 inches from the heat, with the oven door closed, until well softened and browned, 10-15 minutes. If grilling, turn the eggplants to expose all side to the heat. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, grill on a fine-mesh rack or broil the shallots, garlic, and chilies, turning often if grilling, until well softened; don't worry if there are some black spots.

Remove from the heat and, when cool enough to handle, peel the garlic, shallots, and chilies in a large mortar or in a blender or food processor and pulse briefly with the grilled flavoring; you don't want a completely smooth puree.

Turn the mixture out into a bowl (if necessary). Stir in the scallions and chopped coriander and mint, then stir in the lime juice and fish sauce. Add the sesame seeds, reserving a few for garnish if you wish. Taste and add a little salt if needed.

Serve the salad in a shallow bowl, garnished with a sprinkling of herbs and, if desired, sesame seeds. If you like, place slices of cucumber around the edge that guests can use to dip through the eggplant.