Sicilian Lamb Shanks

Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Pat lamb shanks with paper towels. Dredge shanks in seasoned flour.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over a medium- to medium-high burner. When oil is sizzling, add as many shanks as possible, alternating meaty ends and bone ends to create a single layer. Sear the meat (moderate the flame to avoid scorching) and turn until all sides are golden brown. Remove to a plate and keep warm.

Add a small amount of oil if needed, then brown the onions, celery and garlic. Return meat to the pan, spooning some of the mixture on top of the meat.

Scatter bay leaves and salt, pepper, cayenne and herbs over the meat. Pour wine and broth over the meat, along with a cup of water. Turn the meat. Continue cooking until liquid in the pan just begins to boil.

Cover the pan tightly and transfer Dutch oven to the preheated oven. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees F and bake for 1 hour.

Remove pan from oven and use tongs to turn the meat while stirring carrots into the mixture (Assuming you've used a tightly fitted lid, there should be plenty of liquid. If it appears to be drying out, add more broth or water). Return pan to oven and continue braising for another hour to 1 1/4 hours.

Using the tines of a kitchen fork or the tip of a sharp knife, pierce the meat to test for doneness. The meat will have pulled away from the bone and it should pierce through easily.

Place Dutch oven on a heatproof surface. Scatter mushrooms into the pan, stir, adjust seasonings if necessary, then cover pan tightly and let stand for 30 minutes. Do not remove the lid.

You can serve a single shank to each guest, or, using forks, pull meat from the bones and mound into a warmed bowl or platter. Spoon sauce, including carrots and mushrooms, over the meat. If desired, splash with fresh lemon juice or sprinkle with zest.

Serve with mashed potatoes or rice pilaf, and a green vegetable.

Variation: If you wish, working over medium heat, thicken the sauce to taste using small amounts of roux (equal parts of butter and flour, cooked together over medium-low heat until golden brown and any raw flavor is gone) stirred into hot liquid to desired viscosity.

As an alternative, when you add the mushrooms stir in 3 to 5 tablespoons of prepared tapenade, preferably a variety prepared from green olives and sun-dried tomatoes.

Let stand, tightly covered, before serving as above.