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Tasty Veggies In or Out of Season

CDKitchen Cooking Columnist Amy Powell
About author / Amy Powell

World traveler; gourmet 30 minute meals; lover of exotic ingredients; winner on FoodTV's Chefs vs City; graduate French Culinary Institute. Her recipes will tantalize your taste buds.


For us vegetable eaters out there or those just those trying to eat better, this can be a frustrating time of year. The long winter seems to drag on and on, with spring just far enough away to make one yearn for just that spring bloom to give shed a glimmer of hope that winter will soon be coming to an end. Alas, no such luck this year as the winter storms continue to drag on across the country and with them the best fruits and vegetables continue to hide out in hibernation.

Not all fruits and vegetables are dormant this time of year but arguably some of the best and tastiest are unavailable. Still, there are a few heartier varieties that that can tough out the cold weather including Brussels sprouts, turnips, parsnips, celeriac, carrots, and a variety of other root vegetables. On the fruit side you are limited to mostly citrus this time of year but that can range from tangerines, to grapefruit, to blood orange with the occasional nice batch of strawberries thrown in for good measure.

One should try to eat as in-season as possible both for sustainability reasons and for the simple matter of taste. Anyone who has tried to eat a fresh tomato this time of year can attest to the fact that their color in February is not so much red as pinkish orange and their taste often borders more on the side of mealy than the sun-ripened juiciness of a tomato in August. But thanks to the miracle of modern agriculture and hothouses, we can eat many of our favorite summertime vegetables in the dead of winter, even if the flavors aren’t quite what they could be.

The unfortunate thing about the vegetables that are in season is that many such as Brussels sprouts and parsnips, have a reputation for being bitter. So if the winter vegetables are bitter right now and the summer vegetables are flavorless, how do you make the most of vegetables this time of year with a flavor that is not bitter or bland?

The answer is found in the oven. Roasting is a cooking technique that brings out the natural sugars in a vegetable and concentrates the flavors, as opposed to steaming or sautéing, where some of the flavors are naturally leached out during the cooking process.

For the winter vegetables, removing the bitter core, such as in the case of the parsnip, is the first step toward a more enjoyable vegetable dish. Brussels sprouts will also benefit from a quick blanch in boiling water for a few minutes before roasting to cut through some of their potential bitterness. A variety of root vegetables such as sweet potatoes, carrots, and parsnips peeled and cut into batons make a wonderful, and healthier, substitute to french fries when tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper and roasted for about 20 minutes in a hot oven.

Otherwise bland summer vegetables can also reap the benefits of a few minutes in a hot oven. Roma tomatoes cut in half, brushed with olive oil, and topped with thyme, emerge from under the broiler as a juicy and aromatic side dish. Or try a winter version of the summertime favorite, panzanella salad, by roasting some green beans in olive oil for about 15-20 minutes at 450°F, roasting cherry tomatoes for 6-7 minutes, and then tossing it all together with homemade croutons, cubed fresh mozzarella, and a balsamic vinaigrette.

You may have long ago forgotten what the sun looks like but that doesn’t mean your vegetables have to match the dull of the winter sky. Like the renewing energy of coming home to a warm house after a day in the cold, a turn in a hot oven has the same power to bring out the best in your vegetables, no matter their seasonality. If roasting can bring out the best in your vegetables, then maybe your vegetables can bring out the best in you, making the winter a little less bitter, and a little bit sweeter, until the sun comes back again.



Roasted Root Vegetable Fries

photo of Roasted Root Vegetable Fries


Get the recipe for Roasted Root Vegetable Fries


Made with olive oil, thyme leaves, sweet potato, parsnips, carrots, salt, black pepper, crushed red pepper flakes


Serves/Makes: 6

  • 1 sweet potato, peeled
  • 4 parsnips, peeled
  • 2 large carrots, peeled
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
  • 1/4 cup olive oil

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Slice the sweet potato, parsnips, and carrots into long, equally sized, French fry like strips. Place the fries in a large bowl along with the salt, pepper, crushed red pepper, thyme, and olive oil. Mix gently to coat the veggies in the oil.

Spread the fries out in an even layer on one or two rimmed baking sheets. Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake at 450 degrees F for 20 minutes or until they are tender and crisp on the outside. Stir the vegetables every 5 minutes during the cooking time so they brown evenly.

Serve hot.


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