A Globally Warmed Winter Menu
According to certain members of Congress, global warming does not exist. At the moment, with Colorado residents dealing with their third major snowstorm in the last month, I have a feeling that many in that state might agree. But then you have Californians who are looking forward to 70 degree weekends and golfers in Chicago who are hitting the links in January. Many would probably agree that global warming is upon us.
The problem for the everyday person not fighting it out on Capitol Hill lies in how to deal with the psychological implications of the global warming dilemma. For instance, Vogue tells me I should be wearing wool coats and shearling-lined boots this time of year. Although I know these fashion magazine trends do not exactly translate to the sunnier states, the challenge is in how to balance the fashions of the season with the demands of the climate, whether it's warming or not. Clearly I can’t wear a white linen dress. But do brown wool pants really have a place when it is over 70 degrees out?
So too, does this dilemma exist in the food world. To be a seasonal restaurant means that, rather than including blueberries from Argentina on a January menu, a restaurant buys locally and uses seasonal ingredients. This time of year, that means a lot of root vegetables. A winter seasonal menu includes a lot of roasting and stewing of foods designed warm the bones, like cassoulet, beef stew, chicken pot pie, and braised lamb shank. But when your climate won’t allow you to wear the woolen sweaters designed to hide the inches on your waist that those dishes will surely add, a different strategy in the kitchen is needed. Still, there is something just wrong, like wearing linen in January, about eating a summer diet of ceviches and salads just because the weather is unseasonably warm.
Despite all the mental confusion, a compromise does exist. If one keeps the main focus of the meal somewhat light, say with fish and chicken instead of beef and lamb, and prepares it in a way that is hearty or brothy, the result is the illusion of richness but a little bit lighter. The key to this is the braise technique. When a meat or fish is cooked fully submerged in liquid, that is called poaching or boiling. When the liquid comes about halfway up the side of the meat of fish in question, that is called braising. The result of using a braising technique is a meat cooked in its own rich and flavorful juices.
To work that technique with poultry or meat, brown the meat first, then add the poaching liquid and seasoning, including any vegetables or herbs. Working with fish, the process is even easier. Poaching liquid such as wine or stock, herbs and vegetables are combined all at once and brought to a boil. Reduced to simmer, the fish is added and the pot is covered with a lid. Depending on the thickness of the fish, 5 to 7 minutes later a fish in its own fragrant broth is ready to be served.
In the era of global warming we may not be able to hide behind the protective layers of wool like those lamb-shank states buried in snow are doing at this moment. But that doesn’t mean we have to miss out on the winter food fun. If we keep it just a little lighter in the kitchen without sacrificing the joy of naturally rich cooking sauces, we can still squeeze into our warmer weather cottons looking forward to the day when the linen can again come out to play.
Made with cremini mushroom, artichoke hearts, basil leaves, butter, salt and pepper, ono, olive oil, garlic
Serves/Makes: 4
- 12 sun-dried tomatoes
- 1/2 medium onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 cup white wine
- 2 cups vegetable stock
- 10 cremini mushroom
- 1 cup canned artichoke hearts, drained
- 2 tablespoons chopped basil leaves, PLUS
- 8 whole basil leaves
- 1 tablespoon butter
- salt and pepper
- 1 1/2 pound ono or other thick, firm fleshed white fish
***Spinach***
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic
- 8 ounces fresh baby spinach
***Tapenade***
- 1/2 cup kalamata olives, pitted
- 1/2 bunch flat leaf parsley
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 tablespoon olive oil (more if needed)
If sun-dried tomatoes are dry, bring a small pot of water to a boil, turn off heat, add tomatoes, cover with a lid and set aside. If they are jarred packed in oil, just set aside and proceed with fish.
Slice mushrooms and onions, crush garlic, slice artichokes into quarters they come whole, and chop basil. Add prepared vegetables to a large pot suitable for braising.
To the pot add stock, wine, and butter. Bring braising liquid to a boil. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Allow to boil for about five minutes while fish is prepared.
Remove any pin bones from the fish, cut into even sized portions if this has not been done already, and season on all sides with salt and pepper. Reduce braising liquid to barely a simmer. Add fish, cover with a lid and allow to cook for about five to seven minutes until cooked through.
For Spinach: Preheat olive oil in a large non-stick saute pan over medium high heat. Slice garlic and add to olive oil. Saute for one minute. Add spinach along with a couple of pinches of salt and pepper. Saute spinach until wilted and set aside.
For Tapenade: In a food processor, add olives, half of the parsley, roughly chopped, and crushed garlic. Pulse to chop up and combine. Add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil to help it come together if necessary and season with pepper to taste. Tapenade should be slightly chunky but with no obviously large pieces of parsley or olive.
Thinly slice remaining whole basil leaves and finely chop remaining parsley. Remove sun-dried tomatoes from water and thinly slice lengthwise.
To serve, in a large shallow bowl, arrange a small mound of spinach in the middle. Top with a portion of fish. Ladle braising liquid with some vegetables into the bowl around fish.
Garnish with a sun-dried tomato and chopped herbs. Spread 2 Tbs. of tapenade over the fish. Serve immediately.
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