Off the Cob and Onto the Plate

About author / Amy Powell

World traveler; gourmet 30 minute meals; lover of exotic ingredients; winner on FoodTV's Chefs vs City; graduate French Culinary Institute. Her recipes will tantalize your taste buds.

Corn is no better than it is right now. White or yellow, it doesn’t matter. In the husk, on the cob, fresh off the grill, with butter or without, salt and pepper dusted or Plain Jane, there is nothing better in the world of quintessential summer foods than corn.

In fact, corn is so good by itself it is easy to forget how well it pares with other summer favorites. Off the cob corn provides a nearly endless supply of complimentary possibilities, from cold salads to hot stir-fries to market inspired pastas.

One undeniable characteristic of corn is the sweetness of its kernels. (At the peak of the season it is easy to see understand how corn becomes the syrup that makes soda the addictive enemy of dentists everywhere.) This sweetness, delicate not pouncing, I found makes for a different twist on certain Southeast Asian dishes. One night this week I made a dish of stir-fried green beans with chilies and corn, a splash of soy and squeeze of lemon rounding out the harmony of sweet and spicy with salt and sour. The hearty vegetable medley was globally grounded but summer inspired. It was the perfect flavor and texture balance to a dish of caramelized ginger chicken.

Fresh tomatoes, sweet in their own right, form a nice duet on a plate shared with corn kernels. Soft heirlooms benefit from the textural contrast found in the bit of crunch in the corn. A smear of fresh goat cheese, sprinkle of torn basil and drizzle of sherry vinegar completes the plate for an easy starter or light supper.

These two defining characteristics of corn kernels, sweetness and light crunch, also lend themselves to main courses. A simple linguine, for instance, can have a very American makeover when tossed with halved cherry tomatoes, corn, and sprinkled with extra crisp bacon. Saute the kernels with chanterelle mushrooms in a generous serving of butter and you have a fine flavorful base for roast chicken or broiled halibut.

One recent steamy evening I put a couple of cobs on the grill along with some fresh zucchini right from the garden. Both the corn and the zucchini received a generous brushing of olive oil infused with oregano and garlic. When the cobs were lightly browned, juices almost bursting, off the grill they came. Kernels off the cob and zucchini cut in bite-sized pieces, the still warm salad was tossed with an acidic dressing and a generous grating of salty ricotta salata.

The subtle sweetness of the corn was a perfect foil for the vegetal bitterness of the squash. That night we ate the dish warm soaking up the juices from a skirt steak hot off the grill. The next day we ate the leftovers cold, the corn losing none of its magic once the heat had worn off.

Texture, flavor, color--corn really has it all. So much so it is easy to forget the flexibility of the kernels and go right to a hot buttered cob, tips held gingerly with two hands. But this summer, show a bit of restraint with the cobs, long enough to remove the kernels, and you will be rewarded with a vegetable whose pairing possibilities know no bounds.

Serves/Makes: 6

***Zucchini and Corn***

• 2 ears corn
• 3 large zucchini

***Olive Oil Baste***

• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano, crushed
• 1 teaspoon Kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

***Vinaigrette***

• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• salt and pepper

***Ricotta Salata***

• 2 ounces ricotta salata
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh basil