Shut Up and Cook: An Interview with Chef Lesley Covitz

About author / Sara Rae Gore

Our New York dish; actress; chef; cooking instructor. Glam food is her thing and she makes a mean martini.

In the restaurant world, where turnover is known to be high, it’s expected that many people will come in and out of your life. While some might see this as unfortunate, I like to see it as an opportunity. Now, I know that sounds a little cold, but allow me to explain: It’s an opportunity to learn something new from each and every person you meet.

Yes, sometimes, and with some people, this is an impossible task. But with every passing job you take with you a few new techniques, a few friends, and most definitely a few more scars and a couple of hairs on your chest. And every so often, you meet someone you just can’t seem to shake.

One day that I remember very clearly, I was working at the new Jean-Georges’ restaurant (at the time rumored to be named Mignon or Rare, but which eventually was named V Steakhouse), the cutest, innocent-looking Kansas girl came in to train. I thought she was sweet, kinda quiet, a “whatever you tell me, chef” kind of girl. But on the contrary, this girl had chutzpa. This girl was the kind of girl you want to have on your good side.

What I admired about her is that she isn’t afraid to say "This is why I did it this way. This is why I think it’s perfect." And when she shows up for work with her game face on, stay out of her way. Her name is Lesley Covitz.

In my never-ending and utmost respect for Chef Lesley, I wanted to find out what brought her to where she is and who has come in and out of her life to help make her the chef she is today. I thought I would share what I learned with you. We sat down at her apartment in the West Village and dished.

SARA RAE GORE: When did you know you wanted to be a chef?

LESLEY COVITZ: When I was 13. I stayed home all summer and watched cooking shows. My favorites at the time were Yan Can Cook, Julia Child, and Graham Kerr’s old show from the 70s. I began taking cooking class in high school. At that time it was all about stir fry, monkey breads, and you know, kid friendly meals.

SRG: When did you take it more seriously?

LC: I went to cooking school at Johnson County Community College. While I was there, I did the culinary apprenticeship for the full three years at Lidia’s of Kansas City and accepted an opportunity from Lidia to be a sous chef after having gotten approval from my teachers.

SRG: [What she doesn’t want to say, but I will, is that she wasn’t supposed to be a sous chef while in school. But she had exceeded everyone’s expectations and had been offered the job. So she went to work for Lidia Bastianich.]

SRG: What did you learn from Lidia?

LC: Lidia’s was definitely an early stepping stone for me. I was 22 years old. I learned so much about fresh ingredients. We had a garden in the backyard of the restaurant and where I would go out there and pick the freshest herbs and vegetables to use for service. We also had the most amazing strawberries in Kansas that I would get at the Farmer’s Market with the Pastry Chef on Saturday’s and we’d make amazing jams and strawberry ice cream and store them for the winter.

SRG: What brought you to New York?

LC: After being at Lidia’s for two years, Linda Duearr, the executive chef from New York said to me, “Do you want to stay here and be a big fish in a little pond or do you want to be a little fish in a big pond and learn?” So I made the move.

SRG: What was it like coming to New York for the first time?

LC: Overwhelming. I moved into my apartment the night before my first job here at 11 Madison Park. One of the chefs back in Kansas City used to work there and gave me a recommendation. I was so excited that I took the first job that I was offered, which was a pastry chef position. I was later offered a hot line position, but because I clashed so much with the pastry chef, I decided to move on.

SRG: So who did you grace with your presence next?

LC: I went to the Lobster Club with Anne Rosensweig until she sold it. She was interesting to work for. Tough lady. Then I spent the next three years at Union Square, Chef Michael Romano’s restaurant. While I was at Union Square, I helped Head Chef Sandro Romano and Rocco Dispirito open Tuscan and continued to work at Union Square at night. I had taken on a lot of responsibility at Union Square and was ready for a promotion, but the problem is none of the sous chefs seemed to want to leave.

SRG: I can see how that might pose a problem. (Alright, let me give you a visual. At this point of the interview, Lesley decides to stop to make us some warm cookies. Keep in mind it’s almost midnight.)

SRG: Okay, yum, but let’s get on with it. So, I know that Chef Romano influenced your life and was one of your mentors. Tell me what you learned from working there?

LC: “Shut up and cook.”

SRG: Love it! Words of wisdom.

LC: I also learned that the chef’s attitude creates the whole vibe for the kitchen. We had each others backs there. Chef Romano’s spirit, enthusiasm, and kindness set a certain comradery in the kitchen.

SRG: So, after Union Square you came to V Steakhouse, which is where we met.

LC: Yeah, I found out about a spot at Jean-Georges’ new restaurant in the Time Warner building in Columbus circle. There was a lot of buzz about the center, drawing in Thomas Keller, Masa Takayama, Gray Kunz, and Jean-Georges’. But, as you may also know, we had clashing styles of management and I needed to move on again.

SRG: Yeah. This was the turnover I was talking about earlier. So, that brings us to where you are now.

LC: I read an ad for a sous chef position at Il Buco on Craigslist and thought I would give it a go. I’ve been there since August and it’s going really well. The concentration is on fresh ingredients, beautiful cheeses, and organic meats with no antibiotics and no hormones. I appreciate the respect that is placed on quality here and because of it I definitely plan on sticking around.
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I just have to say that I’m thrilled Lesley decided to be a little fish. But I assure you; she is no little fish and never will be. She happens to be a fish in an 11 mile tank holding her own with lots of room to grow. We should expect great things from her. Speaking of great things, I have to go find out if she’s got any more cookies!

If you happen to live in NY or are planning a visit, you can find Lesley at Il Buco located at 47 Bond Street, New York, NY 10012. I brought a few friends recently and we had an amazing chef’s tasting put together by Lesley. It’s most definitely worth the trip and the wait. A little advice: Make a reservation at least a week in advance. I called the day before and couldn’t get a table until 10 pm--and I had connections!

Lesley was kind enough to share with us one of her own recipes. Enjoy!

Serves/Makes: 4

***Pizza Dough***

• 1 cup warm water (105 degrees F)
• 1 1/4 ounce packet yeast
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

***Caramelized Onions***

• 2 onions
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt

***

• 1 1/2 cup coarsely grated fontina cheese
• 6 slices pancetta, cooked until crisp
• 1 clove garlic, cut in half
• 1 drizzle olive oil
• salt and pepper, to taste