A Louisiana Labor Day
Dear US Government,
Although certain decisions you have been making of late may be questionable at best, I would like to take this opportunity to recognize something you did correctly a long time ago. Labor Day is by far one of the best-timed and duly deserved holidays in America. This day, unlike the usual holidays that are born of religious observance or in recognition of a wartime achievement, is simply a day where you, the American government, decided to recognize the efforts and contributions of our work force by giving all hard-working citizens what we desire most: a day off.
As the first Monday of September, it could not be better timed. It is our last stand of summer, when the weather has passed its peak of heat but has yet to necessitate an evening sweater. It is a time when the white wine still pours, the beer still flows. And it might even have cooled down enough that we can venture back into the kitchen to throw together one spectacular last fiesta of the summer.
Sadly, one year ago as we were preparing to enjoy our much earned long weekend, as a nation we were glued to our televisions watching the devastation as New Orleans, one of the most spirited cities in our country, was being torn apart by the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. I hear on television and read in the papers that you are doing your best to recover this epicenter of culinary Americana. Well, as a long time admirer of the gustatory contributions of New Orleans, I think it necessary that we pay special tribute this Labor Day to the kitchen laborers of the Gulf who have given our palates so much to be thankful for.
I think there was a time in the Eighties where Blackened Everything was the item to have on a restaurant menu. This is thanks to the generally impressive cooking contributions of the impressively rotund Paul Prudhomme. His 1984 cookbook, Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen did much to bring attention to the food of the region and introduced us to the concept of blackening our food in the first place. Now Prudhomme’s “Magic” seasoning line is a nearly ubiquitous item in the seasoning section of supermarkets. The whole blackening technique is present around every corner, as an Applebee’s menu item or as a powder on a shelf at Ralph’s. But that is, in fact, a testament to the extent to which Louisiana cooking is a part of all of our lives.
I will have you know, dear Government, that I did my part last fall to participate in nearly every Katrina fundraiser to which I was invited or had an opportunity to donate to. I would like to say my participation was purely selfless, but that would overlook the obvious excitement with which I nearly ran to the tables of the Louisiana chefs who prepared samples of their food at these events. A friend and I warned the oyster shucker at one such event that we would be hanging around his table for a while that night. He gave us a smile and a look that said “right . . ,” but by the time we had slurped down a dozen apiece, I think he got the point that we meant business. After then ranging from Brie and oyster chowder to fried oyster Po' Boys, by the time we made the rounds raising money for victims, I was nearly convinced that the oyster was an extension of New Orleans itself.
Buildings and streets are still a mess but I hear the restaurants are beginning to open their doors again. Cookbooks have been destroyed, but in the great tradition of home cooks, in forums like the Times-Picayune, people are sharing their recipes that have been passed down from generations. So as we linger this coming weekend in our bittersweet end of summer, we will take a break from our work, and fondly eat and drink in honor of our friends to the South whose kitchen labors we continue to enjoy and whose hard work will one day rebuild “The City that Care Forgot.”
Sincerely,
In Love with Louisiana Cooking on Labor Day
Made with scallions, red bell pepper, salt and pepper, dried thyme, paprika, dried oregano, chili powder, black pepper, kosher salt, chicken breast halves
Serves/Makes: 6
- 1 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 2 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 1 bay leaf
- 3 ears corn
- 1 cup shelled frozen soybeans
- 1/2 red bell pepper
- 1 bunch scallions
- salt and pepper, to taste
- 3 tablespoons dried thyme
- 3 tablespoons paprika
- 3 tablespoons dried oregano
- 1 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
- vegetable oil
In a small saucepan, bring cream, thyme sprigs, garlic and bay leaf to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and continue to boil until reduced by half.
Meanwhile, cut kernels from the ears of corn. Remove stem and ribs from bell pepper. Cut lengthwise in 1/4 inch strips. Cut strips to form 1/4 inch dice. Remove stem from scallions and slice into 1/4 rounds, white part only, discarding green stems.
When cream is reduced, remove bay leaf, thyme and garlic. Transfer to a large saute pan preheated over a medium flame. Add corn, soybeans, red pepper, scallions, salt and pepper to taste to cream. Bring to a simmer and cook for five to seven minutes until soybeans are heated through corn and pepper and scallions are just cooked.
Meanwhile, preheat grill pan or grill over medium high heat.
Combine the thyme, paprika, oregano, chili powder, ground black pepper, and kosher salt on a large plate: dried thyme, paprika, dried oregano, chili pepper, black pepper and salt.
Either have your butcher butterfly the chicken breasts or do it yourself with the tip of a sharp knife so breast is flat and relatively the same thickness, about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. You can also pound the chicken with a meat mallet to achieve the desired thickness.
Brush grill pan with vegetable oil. Dredge chicken breasts in spice mixture to coat. Place on hot grill and cook for about 3 minutes per side until breasts are cooked through.
Serve soybean succotash with chicken.
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