Enchiladas That Are Dead On
While we're trying on costumes and dressing up our little pumpkins and witches for a night of trick or treating, just south of the border our neighbors are getting ready for a different kind of spooky festivity, The Day of the Dead. Actually, the scare is all in the name as Day of the Dead is more joyous celebration of relatives who have passed than a fright-fest. Best of all, the day is marked by lots of food, for those dead and alive.
The Day of the Dead is best known to us Northerners without Mexican roots as that holiday where people dress up as skeletons. Far less morbid that the images suggest, The Day of the Dead is really an opportunity for family members who are alive to commemorate those who have passed away.
The celebration now coincides with the Catholic holiday of All Souls Day and All Saints Day on November 1st and 2nd. But the traditions associated with these holidays in Mexico can be traced back to Pre-Columbian times. The Aztecs held month-long celebrations to honor the god associated with death and rebirth. Skulls, then used as symbols of rebirth were adopted in the modern interpretation of this festival as a sign of life to come.
Food is an integral part Day of the Dead ceremonies. Families take the time to make dishes that are more labor intensive than everyday meals, as well as sweets and sweet breads to bring as ofrendas, or offerings, to the graves of the deceased. Moles and tamales are made and left on the graves of the deceased, family members often gathering around to picnic at the site after leaving offerings.
The extra effort that Mexicans put into making food on this holiday got me thinking about how we treat homemade Mexican food here in the States. Just about any grocery store makes generic Mexican food possible with canned enchilada sauces and factory made hard taco shells. In the spirit of the holiday--while keeping mind that Americans do not get the day off to make moles as many Mexicans do--I think it is worthwhile to make a couple of those Mexican staples you might normally buy pre-made at home.
Frying taco shells is actually fairly simple. My mother used to do hers in a cast iron skillet, heating a couple of inches of oil to fry the shells one or two at a time, folding them as she went to make the hard shell shape.
Green enchilada sauce is almost as easy. Tomatillos, chilies, onion and the blender--fifteen minutes later you have a sauce better than what comes in the can.
At the Tex-Mex restaurant Maudie's in Austin, I recently watched through the window as enchiladas were made to order, not just scooped from a big tray. Already hot piles of shredded seasoned chicken were rolled up in tortillas with shredded cheese. Each serving had two tightly packed enchiladas swaddled in foil, doused in a spicy green sauce and topped with a sprinkling of cheese. Since the sauce and meat were already warm, the enchiladas needed little more than a quick turn under the broiler for the cheese to melt. Fresh ingredients, homemade elements, but made in a way that is fast and convenient. It is a lesson in thoughtful preparation and quick assembly that I took home with me.
So for this Halloween and Day of the Dead, as I run between costume parties while juggling the demands of daily life, I'll have the parts for homemade enchiladas ready to go. Chile verde made with fresh tomatillos can come to a quick simmer on the stovetop. Diced up steak or sautéed Yukon Gold potatoes for the filling can cook quickly on the stove. A quick run in the oven later, the enchiladas will come out hot and bubbling. It's a Mexican feast with just the right amount of effort to show those dead, and especially those alive, that I care.
Made with onion, garlic, tomatillos, Roma tomato, serrano chili, chicken or vegetable broth, cilantro, salt and pepper, Yukon Gold potatoes
Serves/Makes: 4
***Salsa Verde***
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1/2 medium onion, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed, and cut in quarters
- 1 Roma tomato, diced
- 1/2 serrano chili, chopped
- 1/2 cup chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 large handful cilantro, chopped
- salt and pepper
***Potatoes***
- 6 Yukon Gold potatoes, cubed, peels on
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, or as needed
- salt and pepper
- 4 small tortillas, heated
- 3 ounces grated Cheddar or Jack cheese
Preheat the oven to broil. Tear two sheets of aluminum foil 12x12-inches in size.
For the salsa, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, tomatillos, tomato, and serrano pepper to the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes.
Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 10 minutes or until the tomatillos are soft.
Transfer the salsa mixture to a blender. Add the cilantro, cover, and process until smooth. Return to the pan to keep warm over low heat.
For the potatoes, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring frequently, until the potatoes are soft and browned.
Fill each tortilla with some of the potatoes and a couple tablespoons of the grated cheese. Fold in the sides of the tortillas then roll up to seal in the filling. Place 2 on each piece of foil. Fold the foil around the enchiladas to create a boat. Place the foil in a baking dish. Spoon the salsa over the tortillas and top with the remaining cheese. Place in the oven under the broiler and cook for 5 minutes or until the cheese has melted.
Serve hot.
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