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Summer Seafood For All

CDKitchen Cooking Columnist Amy Powell
About author / Amy Powell

World traveler; gourmet 30 minute meals; lover of exotic ingredients; winner on FoodTV's Chefs vs City; graduate French Culinary Institute. Her recipes will tantalize your taste buds.


Seafood and summer are two words joined together in the collective mid-year consciousness. Lobster rolls are a fixture in New England. Clam bakes bring visions of family reunions on the Cape. Trays of Maryland crabs keep Mid Atlantic denizens busy picking through shells for sweet meat through the long, hot summer days.

For all the simplicity of these summer seafood rituals, these seafood feasts are out the grasp of the average American. It must seem impossible to have a clambake anywhere but buried in pit on the shore. And a crab feast, surely that can only be had on the banks of Annapolis where the catch is pulled right to the restaurant in front of the ravenous diners. Even a Californian could not hope to experience such a seemingly East Coast summer ritual.

It may be true that there is nothing like the real thing, but rather than spend yet another summer dreaming of a seafood feast by the New England shore, bring the seafood to wherever you might be, even if the largest body of water for miles is a swimming pool.

Every state that touches ocean has a crab in its waters: blue crabs in Maryland, stone crabs in Florida, Dungeness crabs in Northern California, King crab in Alaska. Making great crabs cakes is as simple as having access to some form of fresh crab. For a summer crab fest just about anywhere, try a crab cake spread. Bind crab meat (canned jumbo lump will work in a pinch or look for King Alaskan at Costco) with just the smallest amount of beaten egg and bread crumbs working the mixture together just to the point where the crab can hold together to form a cake. Pan fry and serve on a bun or over coleslaw, with salsa or a dollop of homemade tartar sauce.

For a more exotic crab experience, go right for the whole beast. Steamed is one of the best ways to experience sweet crab meat. But for a real treat, fried soft shell crab eliminates the fuss of picking through shells by cooking up the whole, edible crustacean. Lightly coated in flour and pan fried, soft shell crabs can work on a po’boy, between two slices of plain white sandwich bread, or my favorite, over greens with a drizzle of chive vinaigrette. Soft shells are shipped live so it is easy to see in a favorite market if they are still good, just look for signs of life. Have your butcher clean them, pack them on ice, and then take the little guys home--two per person for a proper supper--and cook them up that night.

Lobster, like the soft shell crabs, is mostly shipped live. So for those of us not in Maine for the summer, a lobster feast is a splurge worth having if a live lobster tank can be found. For a straight lobster dinner, save yourself the torture of cooking the lobster and have the market cook it for you. Most can do it while you finish shopping. Consider a spread of clarified butter for dipping, steamed corn, roasted potatoes, and a plain green salad. All sides should let the lobster shine and should not overpower. If there are any leftovers, mix the lobster meat the next day with a bit of mayonnaise, chopped pickle, and minced celery. Butter and toast a hot dog bun or similar roll and pile the leftover lobster inside. The result is a lobster roll that can be enjoyed in New England and beyond.

Some of the easiest fresh seafood to come by any time of year is mussels and clams. A true Cape Cod style clambake would require digging a hole in the beach, lighting a fire, layering a large pot with potatoes, corn, seaweed, and a variety of seafood. Buried, the giant container would be unearthed some hours later, the contents tasting of the sea, perfectly cooked, spread out on a large picnic table for all to dig in.

For everyone who does not live in Cape Cod, a similar food set up can be achieved with a few more steps. New potatoes can be boiled, drained, tossed with butter and herbs. Corn steamed. And in a pot a variety of clams and mussels can cook with a little liquid, white wine, butter. Even in Kansas, a picnic table can be spread with paper, potatoes, corn, seafood all laid out on top for the masses to dig into.

Eating seafood at the shore is a vision worth chasing. But with wonderful seafood available so many places in the country there is no reason that you can’t have a taste of a New England summer no matter where in the country you are. Simple preparations, fresh seafood, open air--you will almost taste the salty ocean breeze.



Soft Shell Crab over Arugula with Chive Vinaigrette

Get The Recipe For Soft Shell Crab over Arugula with Chive Vinaigrette


Get the recipe for Soft Shell Crab over Arugula with Chive Vinaigrette


Made with chives, olive oil, soft shell crabs, whole milk, flour, salt and pepper, butter, arugula, lemon juice


Serves/Makes: 4

  • 8 soft shell crabs, cleaned
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup flour
  • salt and pepper
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 4 ounces arugula
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/4 cup minced chives

Preheat oven to 200 degrees F. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and place in the oven.

Place crabs in a large bowl and cover with milk. Let sit for at least 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix flour with a bit of salt and pepper on a large shallow plate or pan and set aside.

In a small bowl, melt butter over medium low heat. Pour clarified butter off leaving behind milk solids. Discard solids.

Working 2-4 at a time depending on the size of the saute pan, heat a few tablespoons of clarified butter over medium high heat. Dredge one crab at a time through the flour mixture.

Place crab in hot butter and fry for 2-3 minutes per side. Once crabs are cooked on both sides transfer to the pan in the warm oven and repeat with remaining crabs.

Mix lemon juice, olive oil, and chives with salt and pepper to taste. Divide arugula among individual dinner plates.

When all crabs are cooked, place two fried crabs on each plate over the arugula. Drizzle with chive vinaigrette.


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